A JOURNEY THROUGH SOUTH GUJARAT

It was one of those rare instances that we had four days off after a tiring week at work. So I was looking forward to go on a rather long journey covering south of Gujarat. There was an online article which had generated my curiosity. There were some 6-7 forts mentioned in the article which was enough for me to pack my bags and head straight for Gujarat.

I boarded the Ahmedabad passenger at around 11:45 p.m. from Borivili Station so as to get down at Valsad to make further inlay into the unknown territory. The train reached Valsad at 3:55 a.m. The Bus depot is some 10-15 minutes walk from the station.

It is however past six in the morning that Buses start for Parnera, which was my first destination. It took me half an hour to reach Parnera. I made my way to the gate which mentions 'Parnera Panchayat'. There is a school near this gate and one can visit the Radha Krishna Temple on taking the right turn after the school. This temple is at the foot of the Parnera Hill.

After seeking the blessings of the deity I started my ascent to the top. It was 7 a.m. when I reached the top. The walls of the fort are in ruins. What remains now are the temples of the Lord Shiva and Chandika Ambika Manavdurga. The Shiva temple is actually a Swayambhu Shiv-ling situated just before the main entrance of the fort. Further ahead as one descends down the steps from the temple there is a lengthy wall running on the right side while there are some 5-6 water cisterns to the left. After traversing through the narrow path one reaches the Mahakali temple. Just ahead of the temple there is another entrance to the fort. To the left side there are steps leading to the top most portion of the fort, which offers a commendable view of the whole landscape below.

Whilst my trip down I noticed some 2-3 peacocks roaming around the open ground near the Shiv Temple. It was 7:30 when I had started my descent and 8 when I finally found myself at the main road. My next trip was to Killa Pardi. I caught a rickshaw at around 8:30 a.m. which dropped me near the Police Station in half an hour's time. After crossing the Highway there is a road to the left which leads to the Post Office. The fort is just behind the Post Office.


As one enters the fort there is a bastion to the left. I made my way to the Chand Pir Baba's Dargah. Here I met the caretaker of the Dargah, Harish. Harish had some time to spare and hence decided to show me around the Fort. He showed me the ruins which were once the Mamlatdar's office and the jail adjoining the bastion. There are two huge water tanks which draw water from the Parnera River and supply to the whole of Pardi. He pointed at the 99 acre plot, which was once a talao but had been filled up by some anti-social elements who had made their abodes there. Harish also showed me a spot from where he said one used to traverse and reach at Parnera Fort. The same might have been used by Shivaji during his Surat campaigns. The route has been however shut out for safety concerns. Harish remarked that there were many a poisonous snakes in and around the town, but none of them had ever bitten any of the cattle or human beings.

Having done a complete tour of the fort I bade Harish Good bye and started for the next journey, Arjungad. It was 9:30 a.m. and I decided to take breakfast and go forward. After the breakfast I got into a 10-seater which took me to Bagwada by around 10:00 a.m.

There is a railway crossing that needs to be crossed before one gets to the road leading to the fort. It was 10:40 a.m. when I reached the top of the hill. There is a pond full of fishes near the temple. I sat there for some time before exploring the fort. There is only one bastion left of the fort where supposedly Arjun had brought along Subadhra after abducting her. I got down from the other side of the fort and reached near the Kolak River at around 11:45 a.m.

I decided before further journey I should book a lodge or hotel and freshen myself up before commencing the remaining journey. Hence I got into a 10 seater which took me to Vapi. Here I booked a room at Rahat Hotel.

I over-slept and rushed to the Vapi Railway station so as to catch a rickshaw from the other side to go to Daman, Pali Karambeli and Indragad. It was 5:45 p.m. when I reached Nani Daman. Only two wheelers are allowed between Moti Daman and Nani Daman. Another option is to ride the ferry boats plying between the two places. There is a construction going on for a bridge which will connect these two places in the full sense. The two places still bear the distinct Portuguese style of architecture. Having made a foray into these forts I started for Pali Karambeli. It was 6 p.m. when I reached Pali Karambeli. The fort completely in ruins, wanted to be taken care of. The view of the sunset from this fort remains one of the cherished visuals in this trip.

I returned back to my hotel room by around 7 p.m. and did not venture out further that night. The next day I planned to go to the Van Vihar Tourist complex at Khanvel in Silvassa. I however due to sheer negligence on my part missed an opportunity to give a visit to the complex even after coming so close to it. Maybe next time around. I caught a bus which took me to Borivli, from where I reached home looking forward to rest for two days more.

Best time to visit: All year around. Trekking to these forts is not that much strenuous.

Fare:

Borivili to Valsad : 26 Rs.
Valsad to Parnera : 4 Rs.
Parnera to Killa Pardi : 5 Rs.
Killa Pardi to Bagwada: 10 Rs.
Bagwada to Vapi: 10 Rs.

Round trip to Daman and Pali Karambeli cost 690

Bus from Silvassa to Borivili

A VISIT TO THE PANDAVA CAVES – NEAR KARJAT

Date: 17th February 2008

After the visit to Kothaligad I was eagerly awaiting a visit to the Pandav Leni, which I gave a miss during that trek. So it was a Sunday morning again that I found myself along with Krishna at the Railway platform awaiting the 6:24 Karjat local. We reached Karjat station by around 8 am. As there was ample time for the bus to depart we had tea at the stall nearby. As usual the bus to Jamrung was already there. However it was even emptier than the last time I had boarded it for the Kothaligad trek.

We alighted at Ambivali village at around 9:20 am. We started walking towards Jamrung. We found to our sheer disappointment a bus stationed next to the huge tower which happens to be the landmark for the caves. I was looking forward to this visit as it was supposed to be a secluded spot, cut away from the hustle bustle of the city. It was 9:40 when we reached the caves. There is a beautiful temple inside the cave which had also served as resting place for the Pandavas. A person was playing a stringed instrument and singing some hymns. It sounded so soothing due to the echo effect inside the cave. A dam built across the lake had made way for a reservoir. There was rappelling session going on the rock surfaces near the caves.

There is not much to see except the caves. So after sitting near the lake for some time myself and Krishna made our way back to the main road by 10:30 am. We reached Ambivali by 10:50 am. We caught a Vikram which dropped us at Kashele. We got into a vikram bound for Karjat when Krishna noticed that Neral was 12 kms from Kashele. So we got down from the Vikram bound for Karjat and got into the one for Neral.

We reached Neral just in time to catch the CST local.

Best Time To Visit: Any time during the year

How to get there: As we realized later in the day, Neral is the nearest rail head. From Neral catch a Vikram up to Kashele and further to Ambivali or Jambrung.

A TRIP TO TUNGARESHWAR AND CHINCHOTI WATERFALLS

Date: 29th July, 2007

Vasai and its nearby precincts wear a different colour during monsoons. Just two days prior to this trip the rains had started their second innings in Mumbai. Although it was good news as I had plans to visit the ‘Chinchoti’ waterfalls, however heavy rains might have caused serious problems.

Early morning on a Sunday I reached the platform by 5 am. I was to catch the 5:33 Vasai shuttle. I had read about the Tungareshwar hills and the presiding deity, Lord Shiva. The temple was to be the first destination followed by ‘Chinchoti’ waterfalls. It was nearly 5:50 am when the Push-n-pull arrived. It left in 2 minutes flat. I occupied the window seats fortunately. I was reminded of the time when my neighbour, Santosh and I had once traveled by this very train to visit his friend in Vasai. At that time Vasai was not as well developed as it is today. It was more than 10 years when that trip was undertaken.

As I glanced outside, I could see that the rains were still on and were making me a little nervous. As the train was running behind schedule, I could see so many wonderful landscapes which were not visible in my last trip. The train reached Vasai Road station by 6:48 am. I got down on the east side and enquired with a newspaper wallah as to how I could get to Tungareshwar. He told me if I was going alone the Rickshaw wallah will charge some 12 Rs up to Tungareshwar Phata. From the phata I could hire another rickshaw up to the temple. Buses did ply up to Sativali, which was some 4.5 kms from the ST Bus stand. From Sativali, I had either to catch a rickshaw or walk the 3 km stretch to reach the temple. I headed towards the rickshaw stand after purchasing a Times edition from the newspaper wallah. There were some three more youngsters, whom I had seen in the shuttle also going to Tungareshwar. So I joined them and we reached the phata by 7:10 am. I crossed the Western Express Highway and made way towards the temple path.

By around 7:30 am I reached the Sitaram Bapu Mandir. After seeking Sitaram Bapu’s blessing I continued on the way to the Tungareshwar temple. Midway by around 8 am I had tea. It was a nice experience sipping the hot tea and enjoying the sight of a stream flowing by. After having tea, I trudged along the scenic path. I had already crossed two streams until now. The tea vendor had mentioned that there were in all three streams to be crossed. And I would reach the temple in 15 minutes time.

However I reached the temple by 8:35 am only. The setting of this temple is so very divine. Stairs leading to it, a huge tree providing a cover, a stream flowing behind and the mountain ranges covered by mist in the background made for a perfect picture. I paid visit to the Gokarna, Kodiar & Hanuman Mandir. The priest at the Kodiar temple told me a little bit about the significance of the temple. He told me ‘Kodiar’ means ‘Kho Jaana’ (meaning getting lost). He told me the goddess at the Kodiar temple was an avatar of Ganga. Her vehicle was a crocodile. She was also known by ‘Rajmatha’. And she belonged to Kutch.

As I was nearing the end of my Tungareshwar trip I was curious about how to get near Chinchoti. But no one within the temple premises had heard about Chinchoti waterfalls. With the thought that a youngster might know about this waterfall I enquired with a lad sitting on a bike. He told me that since I was new to the area and all alone I had a good chance of getting lost in the forest. So he suggested that I got back to Tungareshwar Phata and then took a rickshaw up to Chinchoti, which was a stop on the Mumbai-Ahmedabad Highway. Jayesh, for that was his name showed me a nice picture he had taken from his camera phone of the falls. Agreeing to his advice, I made my way back to the Phata. It was 9:10 am when I started the trip towards the Phata and by 10 am I had crossed the Phata and asked a rickshaw-wallah if he would take me to Chinchoti. It is better to be in a group sometimes I concluded as the rickshaw-wallah charged me a hefty sum of 40 bucks. I reached the spot by 10:10 am. The rickshaw-wallah pointed towards a group of trekkers and told me to follow them as they were headed to the waterfalls.

I am yet to witness such a lovely village ahead of the path leading to a waterfall. Paddy fields immersed with water and lush green mountains behind the village are still embedded in my eyes. I soon was one with the group of youngsters. We reached the waterfalls by 11:30 am.

The falls had a unique feel. Jayesh had remarked that Lonavala was pale in comparison. I couldn’t disagree. Lunch was done by 12 pm. By around 1 pm, the number of people reveling increased, so I decided it was time to leave. I bade the Andheri group good bye and made my way downwards. A security personnel also came along with me. As we started conversing he informed me that he was a Beat Officer. His name was Sampad Patil.

Patil informed me that his duty was to cover the nearly 450 hectare area and look out for any signs of tree-felling, poaching, etc. The staff has to compensate their wages with the amount of stolen goods in case there is a theft of firewood etc. He also remarked that there was a way from the Tungareshwar temple to the Ashram on the top which passed through Chinchoti but known only to locals and forest guards. All the way along I was thinking of which could be the nearest possible railhead. As Chinchoti came enroute Bhivandi Phaata, Bhivandi Road station was accessible by road too. Sampad Patil told me to catch a 10 seater from Chinchoti and get down at Bhivandi Naka, from where I could get to the railway station. We reached the base by 2 pm. Sampad gave me a ride up to the road leaving for the Phata. I reached the phata by 2:15 pm. It was 2:35 pm when I got into a 10 seater and the journey began. I reached the Bhivandi Phata by 3:20 pm. From there a rickshaw dropped me off at the Bhivandi Road station. The station wore a deserted look. It was 3:30 pm. I purchased a ticket up to Khopar. The train was to arrive by 4:10 pm. However it was 4:20 pm when it finally arrived. I got down at Khopar by 4:40 pm and walked back home remembering the pleasant journey.

Reaching There:

Rickshaw from Vasai to Phata: 10Rs per head
Rickshaw from Phata to Chinchoti: It cost me 40 bucks so roughly 10-15 per head.
10 seater from Chinchoti to Bhivandi Phata: 15 Rs per head
Rickshaw from Naka to Station: 6Rs per head roughly.

When To Visit:
Monsoons

Things to remember:
The forest area is prone to wild cats. Some two three have been spotted. Although they don’t come near the motorable road from the Phata to the Ashram try to remain in a group. Just before you embark for Chinchoti please mark a personal mail to me.

A TRIP TO KOTHALIGAD (PETH) - A TREK FOR STARTERS!

Date: 25th December 2007

After nearly a month long gap since the last trek, which was to Peb, I finally planned a trek to Kothaligad or Peth.
So, by around 6:20 am I was at the platform awaiting the Karjat local. From Karjat there is a lone State Transport (ST) Bus at 8:30 am that I was planning to catch so as to reach Ambivali. From Ambivali one has to trudge along the nearly an hour long mud path to reach the base village Peth.

I got a window seat in the Karjat local by chance and was enjoying every bit of the chilly morning. The train reached Karjat by 7:55 am. The ST bus depot is to the right side of the platform. I reached the bus stand by 8:10 am. I enquired with one of the ST depot official as to when the Ambivali bus was expected. He said it was scheduled to depart by 8:30 am and the Bus was already in the depot and he pointed towards it. I got into the bus and placed myself comfortably besides a window seat. After some time the conductor came inside to inform us that there was going to be Bus change as the one we were seated in has to undergo some repairs and a new bus will be arriving soon. The new bus came by 8:27 am. And our journey began by 8:30 am.

En route there was a Ganesh Mandir at a place called Kadav. It was 9:33 am when I got down at Ambivali. From here I walked along the opposite direction of the bus I was traveling in and took the small tar road going to the left side. Further ahead the road split itself into a mud path and a tar road. A local mentioned that the mud path will take me straight to Peth village, so I trudged along the mud path. I came across as many as three Land fillers being put to use. It seems that work is going on to connect Peth village to Ambivali through road. I maybe exaggerating here but it might happen that our very own Peth could become as well known and accessible as Malang gad.

I reached the base village by 10:26 am. I enquired for a place from where I could have lunch after the trek got over at the first visible settlement itself. I found one and told the lady to prepare a meal for me in an hour or so. I then started the actual trek to the top. I reached the top by 11:05 am. The Main Entrance still retains all its grandeur. I went around the pinnacle and found the lone cannon. Then I retraced back my steps and had darshan of ‘Bhairoba’. Further ahead there is a huge cave. As there was light coming inside the cave I decided it safe to venture inside a little bit. I could see some nicely carved figurines of dancers on the two pillars. There are two more chambers inside, but as they were too dark and I didn’t have a torch I just peeked inside and returned. I returned back and after passing the Bhairoba Mandir I noticed step leading to the topmost point. These are unique steps in the sense that they look so different from normal steps. I however skipped going to the top and returned back.

There is an underground water source which I also skipped as I was feeling a little bit hungry. I began my trek downwards. I must have covered a quarter of the distance till Peth, when I found a group of four middle aged trekkers resting. They enquired if someone was there on the top or was I making a solo trek. I told them I was indeed on a solo trek. They mentioned that they were on a 4 day trek from Bhimashankar to Rajmachi. They had started trekking Bhimashankar on Friday followed by Padargad the next day and were climbing Kothaligad today and intended to reach Rajmachi base by the night. I wished them luck and started my trek downwards.

It was a loss of some 10-15 minutes there but I did get to know which mountain ranges were the Bhimshankar, and where was the Padargad and also that just some 1.5 km from Ambivali were the lesser known ‘Pandav Leni’ and a talao. By around 12:20 pm I reached Peth and found the lady awaiting me. It was a very heavy lunch. She mentioned that all the preparations were from their cultivation itself. They kept whatever was needed by them and sold of the rest. Lunch over I took leave of the lady. It was 1:05 pm when I started trekking downwards.

By around 2:15 pm I reached Ambivali. I enquired for some ‘Khava’ from a shop near the bus stand. I had heard that Milk and ‘Khava’ are very famous items here. I purchased ½ a kilo of it and got back on the road so as to catch a Vikram. I thought I might as well give the ‘Pandav Leni’ a visit and started walking towards Jambrukh. However midway through I shelved my plans on seeing a Vikram approaching and got into it. It took us to Kashele in half an hour’s time. From there I caught another Vikram going to Karjat and reached the station by 3:30 pm, just in the nick of time to catch the local. I reached home by 5pm.

Reaching there:

Karjat is on the central line. Some one hour from Kalyan. From Karjat there is an 8:30 am ST (I think there is only one bus going towards Ambivali) till Ambivali. Bus fare up to Ambivali is 23 Rs.
The return bus is at 5pm from Ambivali. Vikram’s fare comes out the same as the Bus fares.

From Ambivali one has to walk along the mud path.

When to visit:
Monsoons

Important information:

One can keep the rucksacks, bags etc at the Peth village. Do remember to inform the villager to prepare food for you if you aren’t carrying anything along with you. Khava and milk are very famous items here. Khava is cheaper at Peth village. So ask for the same as soon as you sight any villager.