ILANJIPARA WATERFALLS

Date:18th October 2009

My last visit to these less frequented but wonderful waterfalls was with Davis Sir nearly a month back. We had spotted Olakayam waterfalls easily but we ended up losing track of the proper path to the Ilanjipara waterfalls and came near a stream which seemed difficult to cross over. As there was no way ahead we had to cross over if we had to go further. We however decided against it as it was too risky. Furthermore we had no idea if we do cross the stream how far the waterfall was. We decided to visit this place again and that was how I found myself at Davis Sir’s house on a lazy Sunday morning.

We had fixed the time for leaving for the falls as 10 am. We reached near the Notice board at around 10:50 am. The Notice board is the only indication of the path to the waterfalls. As we were climbing the steps leading to this path we saw that a group of around 5-6 boys had come in a car most likely to visit the waterfalls. It was a relief for us as the last time we both were alone in the forest without an idea of where we were going. This group might have been here before or might know the way to the falls was what myself and Davis Sir could think about. We however moved ahead and reached the Olakayam waterfall. Here we found a person taking bath. He showed us the path to the Ilanjipara waterfall. It is a path which one has to take before the bridge comes and a cave nearby marks out the path for first timers.

Although we had moved ahead of the group of boys they soon overtook us as Davis Sir and myself were moving along observing Nature’s various creations. They were in a hurry as according to one of them who had been here before they should reach the top before the wild elephants descend down. This was something new to us as the article which we had read before undertaking the trip did not mention anything about the elephants. We soon were left alone as the group rushed ahead. While walking along the forest we sighted elephant wastes and uprooted trees which rather confirmed the boy’s story. We reached the waterfall by 12 pm. We found the group of boys already there. Suddenly one of the boys cautioned us that there was a snake in the water. Although the snake was small in size its reluctance to go away when one of the boys threw a stone and the scales on its back might have been an indication that the same might be a young one of the poisonous species. It disappeared under one of the rocks that was the last we saw of it. That was the last of dangerous thing we saw thankfully. The boys had their lunch comprising bread and jam. Ilanjipara waterfall is one of the most beautiful vertical waterfalls that I have come across in recent times. I was thrilled at the thought of getting under it. The boys however did not feel that way and opted to take bath in one of the stream down hill and they soon left the place. Myself and Davis Sir had the bath of our lives. Although we were not alone in the forest but we had our one loneliness too. This was just as good as it could be. I don’t know if it was for real but I saw a full rainbow while standing under the falls.

We went to the top of the waterfall after taking bath. The stream was the source of the waterfall. We then started our return journey and came across a stream where Davis Sir pointed out that we had reached the spot near the rocks across the stream last time. I had grave doubts on this as this point was hardly half the distance to the waterfall and we had walked a lot last time we had been here. This doubt of mine got cleared when I saw the images in Davis Sir’s computer. We had been walking along a non existent path. But this time we were happy that we had accomplished our mission. This was a trip that I don’t regret having left unfinished the first time.

A TRIP TO JATAYUPARA CHADAYAMANGALAM

Date: 13th September 2009

Among the many mythological structures that are found in Kollam District, Jatayupara near Chadayamangalam stands out of the rest. Jatayupara, as the legend goes is the place where Jatayu fell to the ground after an unsuccessful fight with Ravana.
I had nearly covered all of Kollam and nearby places. Jatayupara and the nearby Kottukal rock cut cave temple were the only two places which had been left unexplored by me in my travels. So on a Sunday (which happened to be the last Sunday before I was transferred to a different district) I found myself planning a trip to these two places. Although later I was able to go to only Jatayupara I had nearly covered all of Kollam.

It was around 12 pm when I caught a bus bound for Kulathupuzha so as to get down at Ayur and catch a bus to Chadayamangalam from there. I reached Ayur by 1:20 pm. I reached Chadayamangalam by 1:28 pm. The Jatayupara rock can be seen from the Bus Station itself. If one moves towards the main road and takes the first right turn and then the next left turn one reaches the base village. I reached the top by 1:50 pm. I saw that similar to Maruthimala there was a Coconut tree at such a height above sea level. It definitely had to be the tallest coconut tree!

I found a group of 4-5 people also exploring the mountain. I enquired with them as to where the Kottukal Rock Cut cave temple was and how could one reach it. A person said that it was nearly 10-13 kilometres away from the base village. Although there are regular buses’ going to Kottukal the temple is open till 10 in the morning and after 5 pm in the evening only. So I was at the wrong time over there and decided to skip the cave temple. I reached the bus station by 2:40 pm and my hostel by around 4:30 pm.

Getting there:

Bus up to Ayur 18.50 Rs per head
Bus up to Chadayamangalam 4.50 Rs per head

MARUTHIMALA

Date: 6th September 2009

It was on a rather rainy Sunday morning that I rose up at around 6 am all geared up for a trip to Chadayamangalam and Kottukal Rock cut cave temple. When I revealed my plans to my hostel mate Anuraj, he suggested a similar spot near his home called Maruthimala where we all could go together. I thought about it and concluded that it was the better option as I would face some difficulty in going solo to these places in this climate. However due to miscommunication all of us did not reach the place together.

So myself and Shijil sir, were left to travel by ourselves while Anuraj, Arun, Shashi, Shivprasad reached the place well before us. There are few buses plying between Kollam and Odanavattom, the base village for the climb up to the top of Maruthimala. The group comprising of four people I mentioned earlier had caught the through bus going to Odanavattom. Myself and Shijil Sir had a difficult time in first locating the bus and then when we finally got hold of it we could not get inside as it did not wait for us and sped away. In the mean time we thought of enquiring about the boat ride from Kollam to Allapuzha or some other place nearby in case we were unable to reach Odanavattom.

We went to the Tourist information centre near the KSRTC Bus stand. We could then catch a bus from the Bus stand to reach Pooyapally, which would be the place from where we could catch another bus to Odanavattom. We enquired about the boat rides with the person at the information centre who informed us that the boat service had already left at 10:30 am. This boat would reach Allapuzha by 6:30 pm only. This ride costs 400 bucks!!

Other service available at that time was the one at around 1:30 pm which would take us near Thekkumbhagam, Chavara. The fare was 10 Rs per head. We decided to skip the boat ride and went to the bus stand, where we found a bus going to Kulathupuzha waiting for us. We made ourselves comfortable on two adjacent seats. There is good scenery on this route. We had left Kollam at around 1:10 pm and reached Poyapally by around 2:15 pm. We caught the bus to Kottarakara at around 2:20 pm and reached Odanavattom at 2:30 pm.

Anuraj had come there with his auto-rickshaw to receive us. We reached the point from where we had to abandon the auto rickshaw and trek by foot at 2:45 pm. We could not see the huge rocks at the top due to the dense rubber plantations in between us and the top. We reached on top at around 3 pm. There are many rocks here and surprisingly even coconut trees can be seen here at such a height. There are two set of impressions or water which are supposed to be Lord Krishna’s foot impression when he stamped his feet on the rocks so as to provide water to Arjun and the Pandavas when they were living in exile. We explored the whole of this hill and returned back after taking some snaps.

Getting There:

Direct Buses are there to Odanavattom from Kollam but frequency is less. Else one can catch a bus to Kulathupuzha, get down at Poyapally and catch another bus to Odanavattom.

Bus fare up to Poyapally Rs 12 per head
Bus fare up to Odanavattom is Rs. 4.50 per head
Direct Bus will save you Rs.3.50

Best Time: Anytime except during heavy rains. The rocks can be pretty slippery.

A VISIT TO AZHICODE LIGHT HOUSE AND TIRUVANCHIKULAM TEMPLE

Date: 2nd September 2009


If there is something in Kerala from a traveler’s point of view a plenty it is the historic and important light houses. When I was working in Eriyad branch in Thrissur district I had made an unsuccessful trip to the light house located nearby. My transfer to Kollam district, which boasts of two light houses did not help matters as I was denied entry due to the reason that they do not allow a single person on top of the light house. So my desire to get on top of the light house remained unfulfilled for long. I was hence looking to fulfill it somehow. With this in mind I decided to try my luck once again and planned a trip along with mother and nephew to Azhicode Light house and Tiruvanchikulam temple. So on the decided day the taxi came by around 3:20 pm. Myself, mother and my nephew got into it and reached Kodungallur by 4 pm.

Here the driver took a rather long route and we found our self driving on the opposite side of the normal route. We reached the light house by 4:20 pm. When we reached the base we found the light house keeper calling from the top of the light house to remove the foot wear and come on top to pay the entry fees. It was a comparatively long climb than the ones in the buildings in Mumbai that mother was a little bit used to. How she managed to climb it I don’t know. Maybe I never will. The view from the top is breathtaking. The sea was spread as a vast canvass. The coconut trees were everywhere to be seen on the land. One could also see a mountain on the eastern side. We all stood there for sometime. I was thrilled to have finally accomplished my wish.

After getting down we headed to the house of a friend of mine near my previous branch in Eriyad. After meeting the friend we visited the Tiruvanchikulam temple . This ancient temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. We had darshan and were outside the temple by 6:05 pm. We reached home by around 7 pm. Thus I did finally fulfill my wish of climbing atop a light house.

Getting there:

Bus fare from Urakom to Kodungallur is 13 Rupees
Bus fare from Kodungallur to Eriyad is 4.50 Rupees
Tiruvanchikulam is located in the main city itself.

Things to Remember:
There is a board indicating the Light house location just after the ‘Galaxy’ junction. Timings are 3 pm to 5 pm. Open on Sundays and all Public Holidays.

KUNDARU DAM AKA KANNUPULIMEETU DAM, MANALAR FALLS, KUMBARATTY FALLS, ACHENKOVIL, COUTRALLAM FALLS, ARYANKAVU AND THENMALA

Dates: 15th and 16th August, 2009

Day One:

If I had been in Mumbai on 15th August I would have definitely been part of the annually held ‘Independence Day Trash Dash’ at Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Borivili, but that was not the case to be and I found myself searching for some other way to celebrate Independence.

I had planned to explore the Punalur-Shencottah Metre Gauge Section already and a night stay at Shencottah or thereabouts was inevitable. The famous Coutrallam falls are just 5 kilometres from Shencottah. There were some more waterfalls located near Shencottah which I came to know only when I searched online. These falls were Kundaru Falls, Manalar Falls and Kambaratty Falls.

I had thought of staying in the Railway dormitory at Tenkasi Railway Station. However the plan never materialized due to some unforeseen circumstances. I left the company hostel by 6:15 am, so as to reach the Kollam K.S.R.T.C Bus Station by 6:35 am. I found a Punalur bound Fast Passenger bus waiting for me. I got into the bus and made myself comfortable. The bus reached Kottarakara, a major halt just before Punalur by around 7:30 am. There are some nice scenic plantations along the route after Kottarakara and before Punalur at a place called Kunnicode. I reached Punalur Railway Station stop by 8 am. By 8:10 am I reached the Railway Station and purchased ticket for Shencottah. Had a hearty breakfast comprising of Vadai and Coconut chutney and boarded the second last compartment of the Punalur Shencottah Passenger. The coach was empty till the moment the train was about to start when a bunch of likely college going boys got into the compartment. My journey did begin however at 8:49 am only (some 5 minutes delay from the scheduled time of 8:45 am). The train moved along slowly with the restricted speed limit of 25km/hr (till Bhagavathipuram).

The train reached Edamann, the first station on this route by around 9:08 am and started in a minute’s time. In fact only Aryankavu station has a longer halt than other stations due to the crossing of the up and down trains. At around 9:22 am we came across the first tunnel in a total of five tunnels in this route. The next station Ottakal came soon at around 9:28 am. After this station we passed through another tunnel at 9:37 am. In three minutes time after passing through the tunnel the train reached Tenmalai Railway Station where the bunch of boys jumped out. The train was nearly empty now with the getting down of these youngsters. The tunnel after the Tenmalai station just happens to be important as this is followed by the 13 arched bridge which is a photographer’s delight. In three minutes time the train reached Kaluruthy Railway Station. Next stop was Edapalayam. It is difficult to make out if this is a station what with all the Teak plantations coming right up to the platform.

Next station was Aryankavu. The train I was traveling in reached at 10:15 am at the Aryankavu Railway Station. The train in the opposite direction came at 10:26 am only. However it was 10:31 am when my train did leave Aryankavu station. The last tunnel came around 10:36 am. There is a board mentioning that Kerala-Tamil Nadu border is exactly 572 metres from the Tunnel entrance. The train reached Bhagavathipuram by 10:51 am. This station is the first station in Tamil Nadu in this route. In a minutes time the train left Bhagavathipuram, bound for its last destination, Shencottah. In this entire stretch one can find many vendors selling mostly home cooked and prepared snacks like ‘choondal’, ‘murukku’, ‘roasted groundnuts’ etc. Besides many people transport firewood from the forest areas to their homes using the train as the medium. This train which runs four times in a day is very much convenient to them. The train reached Shencottah by around 11 am.

On the other platform the Chennai-Shencottah Puthigai Express was stationed on the broad gauge tracks. And as I made my way towards the platform housing the station master’s cabin, the Madurai-Shencottah Passenger came on to the very platform. I purchased a ticket for Tenkasi as it was the only station having a dormitory. I had planned to stay at the Railway dormitory itself. But fate had some other plans and quite fortunately too. My train was supposed to leave for Tenkasi by 12 pm. As I had exhausted my camera film roll, I decided to buy a new one in the time gap between now and the train’s departure. But this proved to be a serious miscalculation as the film roll was not easily available and by the time I returned after purchasing one roll the train had already left. I then left myself to fate and decided to seek a lodge in Shencottah. I found one near the Bus stand, which I thought was convenient enough if I had to go out to places like Coutrallam and Kundaru Falls which were very nearby and likely to be covered in a quick time.

I booked a room in ‘Annapurna’ Lodge. I arranged all necessary items for the time being and came out at the counter to enquire with the in-charge person about the possibility of my covering these places. Mr. Shekhar listened to me very attentively and suggested that I could not possibly cover the three less frequented falls and Coutrallam all in a day (and that to with less than half a day remaining). So I had to skip one of the falls. I opted for the three falls as I thought Coutrallam being more famous will be too crowded. Now to these three places viz, Kundara falls (7 kms from Shencottah), Manalar falls (31 kms from Shencottah) and Kumbaratty falls (32 kms from Shencottah), traveling by bus was out of question as there were little or no services running.

So Ideally I had to go by auto rickshaw or other private vehicle. He said I could also consult with the owner of ‘Dwaraka’ Hotel when I go for lunch there. I was hungry and I decided to accept his advice as that looked sound. So I went to the hotel and had a hearty lunch, which was served in plantain leaf. I asked the person serving as to where the owner was. When he asked why I was enquiring about the owner I told him about my plans. He briefed me about himself and even introduced me to a rickshaw driver, Ganesh who could take me to all these places at the amount quoted by him. Although the amount was nowhere near the budget travel I mostly go with I could not possibly return back without seeing anything. So I agreed to the idea of first visiting Kannapullimeedu Dam or Kundara Dam, Manalar falls, Kumbaratty falls and a new place Achenkovil (Achenkovil was not in my plans from scratch) at a mammoth 500 bucks !!!

I had had my lunch by then and Ganesh was just starting his lunch. He told me to go back to the lodge and pack necessary items for the trip and wait at the lodge entrance. I quickly went to my lodge room and put in a towel, scribble pad, camera, water bottle and trousers inside a plastic cover and was ready by the time Ganesh came with his auto. We started at around 2:10 pm for Kundaru Dam. The road leading to this Dam offers a pleasant view of the fields and mountains in this area, which looks very much like the fields in Northern India. I took snaps while making Ganesh wait for some time. We reached the Dam site by 2:25 p.m covering a distance of 7 kilometres. The rush at the falls was too much for a loneliness loving person like me and I skipped the falls and walked along the dam. It was crowded too but I managed to get snaps in such a way that it seemed that I had been there with not a soul near. I strode the whole length of the Dam and returned back. We then returned back to Shencottah Junction, our starting point by 2:40 pm.

I got down and enquired with the person at the hotel and met the hotel owner. I introduced myself to the hotel owner, told him about my plans to see around Shencottah. After having met the Hotel owner we were on our way to Manalar. We made a halt near the level crossing for tea. The tea tasted out of the world and for two rupees and fifty paise only it tasted heavenly. More over the setup of old chimney and every other utensil made the tea more special in my memoirs. Tea break done we moved towards our first destination Manalar waterfalls by around 3 pm. We reached Manalar waterfalls by around 4 pm after traversing 31 kilometres. Here the main attraction is a huge rock which forms a perfect setup for the water falls. I took a bath here very quickly and joined our rickshaw wallah for the further course of Kumbaratty water falls which is very nearby too. Kumbaratty water falls are to be covered by walking at a leisurely pace. The river drops at a very unique angle and if one stands underneath it is just like standing under a shower. I stood under this natural shower and swam in knee deep water. It had been long since I swam and just swam for the sake of it. After spending time in the waters I returned back to the main road. We moved on further to the road leading to Achenkovil and reached Achenkovil temple, 6 kilometres, from the falls at around 5:15 pm. This is a pretty old temple and less frequented as such. The setting is very nice and I intend to make another trip over here soon. After taking darshan we left for Shencottah which we reached by 7 pm.

I told the lodge in charge about the trip and he enquired if I was not going to see Coutrallam. I was not so keen on seeing Coutrallam but the lodge in charge said that it was hardly some 5 kms and there were frequent bus services between Coutrallam and Shencottah. The lodge in charge’s persistence was very well indeed as I realized much later in twenty five minutes time I had relieved myself of some luggage and with just the scribble pad and my money bag I went to the bus stand for going to old Coutrallam falls. I caught a bus bound for Tenkasi at 7:25 am and reached Coutrallam bus stop by 7:40 pm. I followed the lodge in charge’s instructions and followed the arch way. Here there were many stores lined up selling a variety of items. ‘Chilli Bhaji’ is very famous here. There are also many banana chips selling stores which are hot items as well. While making my way towards the falls I saw a temple just before the water falls and decided to pay it a visit after seeing the waterfalls. Although it was night time there was a huge crowd gathered there for a bath under the Coutrallam falls. Some were using a soap for a cleaner bath (I don’t like this concept though. Why does one need soap?). The falls looked very beautiful even in the night. I stood there watching for some time. Here there is a provision for locker for keeping clothes etc. I came back to the temple entrance and leaving my footwear outside entered the sanctum. What greeted me inside will remain etched in my memories forever. The temple is nearly 2000 year old and the carvings and sculptures are so out of this world. I had darshan of the main deity here, Lord Shiva and then Parvathi.

There was a red carpet spread out and people were standing away from the carpet I later came to know from Maheeshwaran, a trustee of Sivakasi temple that the carpet was serving as a welcoming medium for the lord and his better half so that they could see each other and together retire for the day. Maheeshwaran also mentioned that the next day was a very important day as it was an annual function. I enquired with Maheeshwaran if he had the contact numbers of the staff at Coutrallam temple so that I could enquire about the programme date in the next year. He told me to wait till the time the pooja got over and briefed me about the antiqueness of the temple. This was Sage Agasthya’s visualization of a Siva Parvathi marriage as he was unable to attend their marriage in Kailas. Maheeshwaran later introduced me to the temple trustee, Paramashivan. Paramashivan gave me his contact number and told me that I could get all the information I wanted. I thanked Maheeshwaran for this gesture and left the temple. I reached the lodge and rested for the day.

Day Two: 16th August 2009

I woke up around 4:30 am the next day anticipating the possibility of a rush at the ticket counter at the Shencottah Railway Station of people bound for Punalur. Packed all the items back into my travel bag and was all set by 5:30 am and after settling the dues at the lodge counter I casually asked if there would be rush for the Punalur Passenger. The lodge in charge remarked that the first train leaving Shencottah is always crowded and I should rush for the Railway station so as to get a seat comfortably. I guess if I had told him that I was not looking for a seat to rest myself but rather a place for keeping my bag on it would have sounded illogical to him. So I refrained from telling him that I was going to travel by the foot board. Just before reaching the station I once again had tea at the place near the level crossing.

I reached the Railway station by around 6 am. Purchased a ticket to Aryankavu and got into the second last compartment of the train. The train began its journey at 6:19 am some 4 minutes behind schedule. It reached Bhagavathipuram by 6:30 am and after a halt for 5 minutes it left the last of the stations in Tamil Nadu. The train reached Aryankavu at around 6:50 am where I got down. At around 7 am I entered the Aryankavu temple. While going inside the temple I saw a man selling gooseberry mixed with chilli powder. I enquired if it was an offering to God or something like that to which he said that it was not an offering but a snack for devotees visiting the temple. He told me to have darshan and come back to purchase it for five rupees a pack. I had darshan of this pretty old temple and came back to the person selling this delightful snack and purchased two packs (In fact he had started making a combination of mango and chilli powder and another one of jackfruit and chilli powder). The snack was an absolute delight. I have never tasted gooseberry or Mango and chilli powder combination like the one I tasted that day. I made my way towards the Palaruvi water fall which was nearby. I was very much disappointed on seeing the huge crowd over there and returned back to the Railway Station. En route I saw three pea-hens and two peacocks on top the roof of an empty school. I reached the station and went to see Mr. Mutiah, station master of Aryankavu Station. I asked if he could give me the complaint or suggestion book so that I could state my suggestion of keeping the metre gauge section untouched.

He thought I meant otherwise and told me to write to the Kerala State Railway Minister to finish the gauge conversion soon. He had been working in this section for nearly 25 years and said that the train travel was very cumbersome as passengers had to change trains many a times as there was no rail connection between Punalur and Kollam(It existed earlier but now has been replaced by broad gauge). Similarly metre gauge from Punalur runs till Shencottah, from where passengers have to by other trains through the Broad Gauge route to their respective destinations. So according to him it would be better if the section from Kollam to Shencottah became a broad gauge one. I gave up arguing my point and took leave of him. I sat on a bench at the platform. There was still a lot of time till the train was to arrive. In fact even the ticket counter would open only half an hour before the train arrived. I finished my delightful snack of mango and chilli powder and some biscuits. I ventured around a bit and took some snaps of the station premises. The train from Punalur arrived first at around 10: 15 am. I went and purchased tickets from the ticket counter. I had to wait for ten minutes more for my train to come. I had missed taking a snap of the key system of the railways (The exchange of key like structures which ensures that the line ahead is all clear). I stationed myself at a pretty good position to catch the right moment. The snap taken, I rushed to get into the compartment. My next halt was Tenmalai, last of my destinations. Just after the train left the Kaluruthy station I waited at the door with my fingers anxiously near the camera button to take the snap of the curve over the bridge which I mentioned earlier as photographer’s delight. I was on my knees at the foot board and took a near perfect snap of the curve. The train reached Tenmalai by 10:56 am. I got down enquired which way the dam site was and started walking in that direction. I reached the dam site entrance by 11:20 am. I was on top of the dam at around 11:35 am. The scenery on the left of the dam is breathtaking. Photography however, is not permitted here. The complete setting will remain etched in my memories for years to come. I returned along a different route while descending the Dam site and was back at the Tenmalai Railway station at around 12:10 am. The train came around 12:54 am. After an unexpected delay between Ottakal and Edamann the train finally reached Punalur at 1:53 pm. I reached my hostel at around 4:30 pm. As my hostel mates were all at their homes I slept peacefully that night remembering all those memorable moments.

Getting there:

Bus from Kollam to Punalur: Rs 25 per head
Train to Shencottah Rs 8 per head
Bus up to Coutrallam Rs 4 per head
Return up to Shencottah Rs 4 per head
Train up to Aryankavu Rs 3 per head
Train up to Tenmalai Rs 3 per head
Train up to Punalur Rs 5 per head
Entry fee at Tenmalai Rs 10 per head
Bus up to Kollam Rs 25 per head

PUNALUR SUSPENSION BRIDGE AND RAILWAY STATION

Date: 9th August 2009

My trip to Punalur was just a precursor to the Tenmalai and Coutrallam trip. I wanted to verify for myself if the trains were running between Punalur and Shencottah and also calculate the time I will take to get to Punalur the next week so as to catch the first passenger train to Shencottah.

I left my hostel room at around 6:45 am. Reached the Bus stand by 7 am and found the Tenkasi Fast Passenger waiting. The bus started by 7:15 am and passed through Kadapakkada, Chandanathoppu, Elampalloor, Kundara, Ezhukone, Kottarakara, Changamanadu, Kunnicode, Vilakudy, Elampal and finally Punalur. It was 8:25 am when I reached Punalur railway station bus stop and made my way towards the railway station. The time was very much perfect as the train was about to leave the station.
I took some distant snaps and one close up snap of the train. Then purchased a platform ticket and loitered around for a while. I had my breakfast, at a place with access to water nearby. Tea, I had from a hotel nearby, which I came to know was nearly 40 years old but had shifted inside the new building housing the railway station. The hotel or rather stall was in the place where I was standing. I then went on to meet the Station master to enquire about the availability of dormitory at Tenkasi. The station master said that those would be easily available at Rs. 75 per day. Feeling satisfied with the assurance that I would get an accommodation I took leave of the station master. I noted down the train timings and left the station to see the suspension bridge.

The bridge is nearly 10-15 minutes walk from the Railway station. Now in a dilapidated condition it is very much amazing as to how buses used to pass through the very narrow openings of the bridge. The only indication that this is a heritage structure is the year ‘1877’ inscribed in Bridge towers and a notice declaring the bridge as a protected monument. The wooden planks are also in a pretty bad state. I saw the railway bridge opposite the suspension bridge and thought that it would be an ideal place to take photos of the bridge from a different angle so I moved towards it. On reaching the top of the over bridge I saw a railway employee sitting on the concrete slab near the railway tracks. I enquired when the next train was scheduled to pass through the bridge to which he replied that it would be more than 2 hours or so till a train will be coming in this direction. Thus assured I walked across the bridge and took some snaps. I returned back to where I had met the Railway employee. I came to know that he was a key man by the name Vishwanathan. He had been with the railways for the past 35 years now and was nearing retirement age. In this section of the metre gauge from the start of his railway career itself, he had been posted in various locations in this section.

He told me a lot about the technical terms like the track alignments, indication boards. Besides he mentioned that the bridge was located at a point exactly 716 kilometres and 300 metres from Chennai. He also mentioned that PSC examination papers always had a question about the exact distance at which the bridge was situated. He spoke about a lot of things about Railways about life also. We nearly chatted for two hours and were brought back to the present by the train whistle. I took a snap of a very valuable ‘Key’ man and the train turning around. I took leave of Vishwanathan and returned to the Punalur bus stand by 12:10 pm. Although the bus departed by 12:35 pm only and reached Kollam by 2 pm. It was indeed a very good precursor of the things to come next week.

A VISIT TO OLLAKAYAM WATERFALL

Date: 4th August 2009

Monsoons and that too the ones in Maharashtra and Kerala are very much similar. When they start pouring all hell breaks loose and when they go away, it takes a lot to cajole them back.

I was missing Mumbai very much especially the rainy hikes and treks that I used to go to. One day, Davis Sir, an ex-colleague with my current firm, called and told me about two waterfalls very near to our residences (This place is nearly 30 kms from my hometown) which were quite unheard of but were as beautiful as the famous Athirapally and Wazhachaal waterfalls. He had read about these waterfalls in a newspaper some time back and was as eager as I was to visit these places. Although these water falls were located in a dense forest the threat of wild animals mainly wild boars was to be dealt with after 5pm as that was the time that they would venture out in the open.

I started early enough in the morning at around 7.15 am in order to reach Davis Sir’s house by 8.00 am as none of us had break fast we had a hearty meal of Roti and sabji that Aunty(Davis Sir’s wife) had prepared for us. Davis Sir showed me the article and we both crosschecked what all items we needed to carry. In my bag there was the Tiffin box, camera, water bottle, scribbling pad, a torch (Was that really needed.), Jacket, an umbrella, snacks and some books. I lessened some of the burden like the umbrella and the books at Davis Sir’s house. The time was 8:45 am when we were all done and got into our ‘savaari’ viz, Davis Sir’s Hero Honda bike. We reached the by-pass that leads to Kutanellur by traveling 9 kilometres and passed Maroti chaal junction by around 9:30 am.

We saw the lone board indicating the stopping point for the waterfalls at around 9:35 am. Buses ply between Thrissur and Maroti chaal at a good frequency I would say as we saw many buses pass by. The distance we covered was 23 kilometres. The waterfall at the topmost point was still further 3 kilometres from this point. While we were walking along the path leading to the first waterfall called Ollakayam waterfall we could hear the sound of the water falling down from a good height. We moved in that direction and found the first waterfall. For irrigation purpose, this falls was diverted on the right side to the canal and on the front side to fall along at a good height and form a natural waterfall. We halted for a while over here to take some snaps and rest a while.

Davis Sir put on the specially made socks for protection against leeches and other creepy crawlies. We walked across some dense vegetation and rock patches. We lost track of the path and many a times went across rather difficult obstacles or came to a dead end. We were just following the flow of the river. We finally came to a point where we could not possibly reach the main waterfalls with out crossing the stream. None of us knew for sure if the water current was below danger level or not so, we decided against it. We both decided to leave this particular path unexplored. Thus, we returned with some unfinished business. The return journey was rough as we lost track of the route many times. Finally, we did reach the base by 1:30 pm.

TWELVE TEMPLES IN A DAY!!!!!!

Date: 2nd August 2009

Call it a son’s unfulfilled wish to take his mother to some well known and some lesser known temples in and around Kollam or his own desire to see some of these temples I may never be able to tell but I was very happy that I was able to take my mother to these all places of worship.

So on an early Sunday morning on the second day of the August month we started at around 7:15 am from Karunagapally. First temple we visited was Panmana Subramaniaswamy Temple. It is situated 6 kms from Karunagapally. It is a pretty old temple and the lord’s consort viz, peacock is also present here. In fact we could see two peahens and two peacocks altogether. We had taken 15 minutes to reach here from Karunagapally. Next was Vettom Sivan Temple which we reached by 7:45 a.m. This temple is two kilometres from Panmana Subramaniaswamy Temple. There was some construction work going on. Next was Kottunkulangara Bhagawathy Temple which is 2 kms more from Vettom Siva Temple. We reached there by 8:05 am. Kottunkulangara Bhagawathy temple is a ‘swayambhu’ temple.

Next halt was opposite the Puthenthura beach, viz Parimala Siva Kshetram at 8:44 am. We reached Anandavalleshwaram temple where we have Siva and Parvathy as the presiding deities at around 9:06 am. Next was Kotarakulam Ganapathy Temple followed by Amachiveedu temple which we reached by 9:15 am. Here still today animal sacrifice is prevalent. One of the oldest temples that we visited was the Rameswaram Temple. There are quite a few modifications done here to this antique temple. Last of the shrines was the Thirumullavaram Shiv Vishnu Kshetram. This place is commonly used to perform last rites. The beach is not bad though. Nice setting for some lovely snaps and we returned to Karunagapally by 12 pm.

That was only half the spiritual trip. In the second half of this spiritual trip, Mr. Krishnan joined us along with his family consisting of wife and two children. The cab had come at around 4:30 pm itself but it was around 5:10 pm when we did get into the cab. We reached Haripad Subramaniaswamy temple at around 5:50 pm after covering 29 kms. Temple is pretty old and it also has an enclosure housing two peacocks. We left Haripad for Manarshaala. It was four minute drive till Manarshaala. Only Brahmins are allowed inside the sanctum. Nagaraja and his better half are the presiding deities over here. The place is so full of dense out growth that one wonders that such a place is still there in existence. We then went to Ochira. Here there is no presiding deity. It is Para Brahma. Ochira Kalli is very famous. We reached our temporary residence by 9 pm.

PUTHENTHURA BEACH AND KOVILTHOTTAM LIGHTHOUSE

Date: 12th July 2009

After a good lunch from a hotel near the private bus stand, I boarded a bus bound for Chavara at around 14:00 p.m. It was nearly 14:40 p.m. when I got down near the Rare Earth Company at Puthenthura for a glimpse of a less frequented sea shore. What is so unique about the view of the beach is the fencing done by using branches and twigs just near the rocks. It offers a very unusual view of the sea shore. (As can be seen from the snaps which I would upload when they get developed) I stayed there for some 5-10 minutes only as slowly some crowd started coming.

The next destination was Kovilthottam Light house. Now instead of turning at the AMC Junction I moved ahead till Shankaramangalam, which is some 3-4 kms more than the actual distance.

I passed through Lord Matha School and finally reached the Light house at around 16:15 p.m. There are three quarters inside the compound containing the Light house. I approached one of the quarters and found a person sitting inside the quarter. I enquired whether it was possible for him to show me inside the Light house. The Assistant Light Keeper, Sivaji said that they do not allow a single person to go up to the top. He however told me to wait for a few minutes and see around the compound.

While whiling away my time I did see an Industry very near to the Light house area and in the opposite side there was a bulldozer leveling the sand. After some time Sivaji called me and introduced me to Mr. Surendran, who was the Assistant helper over there and was getting transferred to Velankanni. He was at that time busy with transporting goods to some place. Hence, Sivaji opened the door leading to the Light house and show me the details of the Light House and its working. He noted down my contact details and address for official records. He gave me the Light House contact number and his personal cell number.

What I felt worth mentioning about this post independence commissioned Light house is that this particular Light house is too close to the seas. This point was agreed upon by Sivaji and he stated that this job was pretty risky as he was the only one managing the things over there. I could not have disagreed as while we were talking inside the Light house I could see a huge wave dashing the rocks very near to the Light house. And he remarked that there is according to the norms, there should be two Assistant Light Keepers and two Assistant Helpers stationed in any Light house. I noted down whatever was worth noting down from the information board. Sivaji then showed me the power supply room which provided the necessary voltage to light the lamp on the top. While returning back I felt pleased by having visited the beach which I wanted to visit for long. However I felt dejected that I could not climb up on top of even one of the Light houses. And that wish still remains unfulfilled.

Getting There
From Chinnakada, Kollam bus fare till Puthenthura is Rs. 8 per head. Return bus fare is the same. The road to the left of AMC junction is the point to divert from the Highway which can be covered by walking. If coming from Karungapally side or from the north, Sankaramangalam is the spot to turn to the right side.

Entry fees are Rs. 10 per head.

Photography is strictly prohibited inside the light house. The light house is closed during heavy rains, thunderstorms and lightning. Visiting time is 3:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. The lights are put on at 6 p.m.

Those keen on visiting this place can send me a mail at n.ramaswamy@gmail.com or call me on 09747155479

THANGASSERI LIGHT HOUSE AND THE RUINS OF PORTUGUESE FORT

Date: 12th July, 2009

In our daily routine we often tend to miss out on the various minor spots which seem common place to others. My Company’s hostel in Kollam, which I have been occupying for nearly a month now, is very near to the Kollam Beach. But it was only on a Sunday that I decided to venture over there.

There is nothing worth mentioning over here except the nearly 100 feet unclothed female sculpture facing the sea. On the sea front the waves were rather violent I would say (maybe it was high tide when I went over there) with each wave trying to compete with the earlier one in fierceness. I stood watching over there and found myself humming Kishore’s number ‘Lehron Ki Taraah Yaadein’.

On the beach there were many umbrella shaped round seating arrangements on the beach. Most were unoccupied. The beach is definitely not one of the cleanest beaches as evident from the litter here and there. One can see the Thangasseri Light House clearly (which I mistook for Kovilthottam Light House) on the northern side of the beach. There is a park here where the before mentioned sculpture is also there. Sanitation is also not that bad, what with Mumbai’s ‘Sulabh’ like latrines and bath rooms available near the beach. I walked around the beach for a while and returned back to the hostel.

After a quick bath and washing the bulk loads of clothes that had accumulated over the week I had a light breakfast. I left around 9:00 a.m. for Thangasseri Light House. According to an online material on Kollam District there are some ruins of Portuguese forts and I was looking forward to see those ruins. This place must be some 3-4 kms. I reached a junction near the Quilon Port and took the road going to the left after walking 10 minutes from our hostel in Pallithottam. Noticeable land mark is St. Mary’s Convent school. Then it is a straight road that leads finally to Vaadi Junction.

On reaching this spot if one goes down the road to the left there is a pillar very much similar to the ones depicted in the TV Series of ‘Malgudi Days’ from here there is a lengthy pucca road which leads you to the Portuguese fort and further to the Light House. While I was gazing at the fort I saw a gentleman also parking the scooter just in front of me and gazing at the sea. I enquired if there were any other structures apart from the one that I was looking at of the Portuguese constructions to which he said that there were any other structures apart from the one that was in view to which he said that there were some cemeteries of them which were now mostly in some or other occupants properly. Most of them were destroyed to make way for Bath rooms and Houses. I did find archaeology surveys board mentioning the fort as a preserved site. And there is a plan to start a park in front of the fort on the opposite side. The landmark to spot the path leading to the fort is Ave Maria Play School. After observing the ruins and taking some snaps I made my way to the Light House. I reached there by 10’o clock. However it is open for public only between 3 pm to 5 pm for a nominal fee of Rs. 10/- per head. A little dejected I made my way back. Somebody had told me that if I returned back from the Light House in another route I may find some cemeteries so I enquired at a house where I could find those cemeteries. An old man rather enthusiastically (what I thought at that time) caught my hand and told me he would show me those cemeteries. Mid way he asked for some money to buy tea for himself. This is typical of many people here and it is not helping the tourism industry over here. I did gave him some amount to which he felt was less !! I reasoned to him that as I was staying far off from my home I could not afford to give him anything more. But he wasn’t pleased by that answer. Anyhow the place where he took me had nothing to offer me any help and I returned back to the hostel at around 11:00 a.m.


Best time to visit:

Any season is good except when thunder storms rains and lightning are there when the entry to the light house is restricted.

Minimum of two persons should be there only then do the light house keeper allow entry inside.

Those who intend to visit the Light house can send a mail to n.ramaswamy@gmail.com or contact me on 9747155479

A TRIP TO CHIMMINI DAM SITE

Date: 14th April 2009

This time around Vishu brought along some real fragrance all together. It was more than a year since I had gone for an outing. The last trip was to Pandav leni. After settling here in Kerala, my mind had been restless as I was missing out on the treks and trails that I used to undergo in Mumbai.

Davis Sir, an ex-colleague of the current organization that I am with joined us for lunch at home and then took us to Chimini Dam in his car. His friend Divakaran and wife were to meet us at Amballur at 2 p.m.

At around 1:45 pm we all made ourselves comfortable in Davis Sir’s Maruti 800. After covering some 9 kms we found Davis Sir’s friend waiting for us at Amballur.

I firmly believe that many a times the route that leads us finally to our desired location offers so much scenery that most of the time we miss out on them. Maybe Davis Sir read my mind and made a stop near a rubber estate and took some group photos. We continued our journey and reached Chimini Sanctuary at around 2:40 p.m. and the Dam Site at 3:25 p.m.

The scene here is so similar to Thekady that one feels like having visited Thekady in an easier and cheaper way. There is an arrangement of stones similar to the tetra pods in Marine Drive, Mumbai through which one has to trudge along so as to reach the river bank. We didn’t have towels handy so we skipped taking bath. However we did sit on the rock near the bank and immerse our feet inside the river.

The scene on the other side of the dam is however different. There is a pump house which pumps out water at such a force that it sends a chill down the spine to even look at that speed at which the water gushes out. Before undertaking this trip I had searched for images of Chimini Dam, and I saw a very nice photo of this very pump house and the setting sun. We however couldn’t wait till sun set.

Soon it was time to bid farewell to the Dam site and while returning back home each one must have been remembering this trip for varied reasons.